The sun is still shining when we stop by designer Andrew Buckler’s Meatpacking digs to check out his progress for the Spring Summer 2010 collection of his namesake line. Models stream in for go-sees and last minute fittings but the trim Buckler is calm and mellow. As it turns out the Royal College of Art alum, known for coverage on the reality show The Hills, is actually more of a designer-slash-philosopher. We chatted with Andrew before the New York Fashion Week madness hits full volume on how he started in men’s fashion and where he draws the line between European high fashion and American rough-hewn aesthetics.

You came from a womenswear background, how did you end up starting your own menswear line?

I designed womenswear at Emanuel Ungaro and then at Daryl K where I started doing men’s collections. It was at Daryl K that I felt my aesthetic was more similar in look and interpretation and I wanted to push that into a more euro and tailored feel.

By euro feel, do mean that the clothes are tighter? Or what is your idea of the “Buckler” guy?

I would call my look Anglo-American. It has a bit of the European feel in that it is cut slimmer, but still has American roots that balances out the masculine side. We have quite a few military influences as well — which probably has to do with what is going on in the world right now.

A “euro” cut can sometimes verge on the androgynous. How do you deal with masculinity when you design?

I think it was Oscar Wilde that said a man’s clothing is his armor, and whether there are details in the shoulder or at the lapel, the whole effect of the look is that it is totally thrown together. Menswear can get too feminine when it gets those lines too mixed up. But its a fine line between hidden details and putting a point of interest in some new thing that pushes the limits of taste.

Do you think American men are tentative to try a more fitted look?

There are a lot of boxy cuts, but the world has gotten smaller. The new generation of American men are more savvy and the conversative-ness is starting to change. Today’s customer gets to see what somebody in Japan or France is wearing.

Tell us about your upcoming Spring Summer collection. What was your inspiration?

I was looking at these Helmut Newton’s mannequin photos and then I was inspired by the work of the artist Cathy Wilkes who won the Turner Prize that also dealed with mannequins. I took that idea abstractly. I interpreted that as a way to contrast synthetic manmade fabrics with natural ones. I wanted to explore the juxtapositions of fabric.

And after the fashion show, what will you do to celebrate?

I’m going to sleep for a week, go into hibernation!

All photos: thestewartofny.com/ryansingerphoto.com