Rick Owens Men's Fall 2010 RTW
January 21, 2011
Just as our wallets have been slimmed the last couple of years, the Fall 2011 European men’s collections have pared down the silhouette into a long, lean, brooding machine. Taking a page from Rick Owen’s playbook, designers played with lengthening proportions. Tops became tunics, while boots were long and slouchy – not unlike a nod to women’s thigh high boots last season. Owens himself, continued the idea of the man-skirt and man-dress. Tough to tell if men with actual day jobs will buy the gambit.
Junya Watanabe, on the other hand, had much more approachable separates. He kept even fair isle pieces tailored and trousers generally fitted. Meanwhile, Parisian young talent Alexis Mabille showed stretchy pants with laces at the seams.
In other splashy news of the week, stylist Nicola Formichetti debuted his first collection for Thierry Mugler. While the looks were certainly eye-catching, and sometimes startling, the clothes themselves weren’t particularly revelatory. The baggy pants and general feel was reminiscent of late i-D magazine stylist Ray Petri’s work. The styling was directional and strong (read: dripping black latex wigs, tattoos, sheer drapery) as Formichetti’s work has become known for. There was the usual underlying question, though, that surface when stylists take to designing: Is the expression too weighted on gimmicky runway accoutrements rather than the design and silhouette? Rest assured his best client was supporting his work though; Lady Gaga debuted an exclusive track for the show. Still, as debuts go, it had a viewpoint. We’re not quick to dismiss Formichetti’s creative capabilities; we can’t wait for the Paris women’s show come March.
Rick Owens Men’s Fall 2011 Collection
Thierry Mugler Men’s Fall 2011
Junya Watanabe Men’s Fall 2011
Alexis Mabille Men’s Fall 2011 RTW