Hi-ya! Karate Kata dominated the Issey Miyake Fall/Winter 2009. The veteran designer continued to prove how he was relevant with a presentation inspired by the dynamic martial art. The sportif inspired collection included suits made of specially created double-faced polyester and wool fabric field-tested by Karate experts. The pleating details running in racer stripes along the shoulders were put to functional use as world class Karate stars, both Japanese and French (mais bien sur!), performed amidst an entertained (and Beth Ditto curious) audience at the Carousel du Louvre.

The collection was otherwise an exploration in how pleating and simple design can be made relevant. Miyake continued his exploration between function and body form. Pleating ran in curvilinear shapes, creating volumes that Raf Simons at Jil Sanders would have been envious of. There were also neon accents on suits, particularly stunning in cream on Sessilee Lopez, and underlining sheer dresses. Whereas, many of the young designers are experimenting with raw-cut seams to mixed effect, Miyake demonstrated why he is still in the game with neatly cut and simple pieces that were obvious in their quality as they were in idea. As the enthused audience affirmed, applause is in order. By Bee Shyuan Chang. Photos by Ronen Shapiro