After the past couple of seasons of girlish fun (think bright pink patent satchels and up-to-there pouf skirts), Miuccia Prada has brought Miu Miu around to a more sophisticated turn. Channeling the sexpot energy of film heroines, double-breasted wool coats had low curvy necklines and louche tops opened to reveal nude brassieres. The underwear as outerwear theme continued throughout with sheer silk blouses, but had a grown-up tension when paired with slim calf-length skirts. The undressed feel of the lingerie-inspired pairings stood in relief to a few skirt suits with masculine jackets as if to say a woman can have her work and have fun too.

miu miu fall winter 2009