In the past eight years, Anne Valérie Hash has cultivated a personal stamp on clean femininity, which is why her dabble in menswear-inspired looks for her Fall 2008 ready-to-wear collection was ill-received despite solid execution. Fresh from a strong couture showing, Hash returned to her strengths for Spring 2009 in Grecian-influenced designs such as one-shoulder diaphanous gowns and loose halters featuring twisted straps and elegant draping.Hash also used sheer netting with a slight sheen, adding a sense of currency in classic silhouettes as in a black, single strap floor-length gown with sheer netting slung across the bust. She was less focused when she overdosed on skin or was overly complicated, using entire sheer bodices on dresses with purple and taupe skirts, whose excessive fabric came off unpolished, and trousers with distracting straps. There were some spare winners, however, to balance out the collection, with a simple white one-piece jumpsuit wrapped to the side and a watercolor print sheath with a surprising cut-out back having their own easy glamour. By Bee-Shyuan Chang

Anne Valerie Hash